Dodge Caravan vs. Chrysler Town & Country Hoods: Key Differences

If you’re shopping for a replacement hood for either the Dodge Caravan or the Chrysler Town & Country, here’s the direct answer: hoods from the 2008–2020 model years are physically interchangeable between the two vans because they share the Chrysler RT platform, but the latch cable bracket, hood ajar switch connector, and hood material differ by model year and trim. A 2015 Town & Country hood will bolt onto a 2015 Caravan with no modifications. But grab a hood from a 2010 and try to fit it on a 2014, and you’ll hit wiring and cable routing problems that aren’t visible until after installation.

This guide covers the dimensional specs, the hidden differences that cause fitment failures, and the exact checkpoints to run before you buy.

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The Shared Platform: What Actually Matches

Both the Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country (2008–2020) ride on the Chrysler RT platform. The hood outer skin, inner structure, hinge mounting points, and striker location carry the same part number across both nameplates for the same generation.

What this means practically:

• A 2015 Town & Country hood bolts onto a 2015 Caravan with zero modifications.
• The hinges, hood latch, and safety catch are identical.
• The hood seal and sound deadener pad are shared parts.

The interchangeability is real, but it is not universal across all years. The RT platform received a mid-cycle refresh for the 2011 model year. While the hood stamping stayed the same, the hood latch cable bracket and the hood ajar switch connector changed. If you grab a hood from a 2010 and try to put it on a 2014, the physical fit works, but the electrical connector for the hood switch won’t match your van’s harness, and the cable bracket holes sit in a different position.

Applicability boundary: This interchangeability applies only to the RT platform vans built from 2008 through 2020. It does not apply to the older Chrysler Town & Country models built from 2001–2007 (the RS platform) or the Dodge Grand Caravan models from the same era. Those use a completely different hood stamping, hinge design, and latch location. If you own a 2005 Town & Country, none of the fitment information in this guide applies to your van. Additionally, the 2021-and-newer Chrysler Voyager and Pacifica use entirely different hood designs and are not compatible with any RT platform hood.

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The One Failure Mode That Gets Most Owners

The most common mistake is buying a hood from a 2011–2016 Chrysler Town & Country and installing it on a 2017–2020 Dodge Caravan (or vice versa) without checking the hood latch cable routing bracket.

Here’s what happens:

The 2017–2020 Caravan received a revised hood latch cable bracket to accommodate the updated grille and header panel. The bracket sits on the underside of the hood, near the latch. If you install an older hood, the cable bracket holes are in a slightly different position. The cable will reach, but it will rub against the edge of the hood inner panel. Over time, the cable sheath wears through, the latch stops releasing, and you’re stuck with a hood you can’t open.

How to detect it early:

1. Before installation, lay the new hood on the ground with the underside facing up.

2. Locate the latch cable bracket. It’s a small metal tab near the center-front edge.

3. Compare the hole spacing to your original hood. If the holes are more than 5 mm off, the cable will bind.

4. If the holes don’t match, you need to swap the bracket from your old hood onto the new one. It’s held by two 10 mm bolts.

This is not a visible fitment issue. The hood lines up perfectly, the latch engages, and the problem only shows up after a few weeks of driving when the cable starts to fray. By then, you’ve already painted the hood, installed it, and the salvage yard won’t take it back.

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Trim-Level Differences: Aluminum vs. Steel

Not all RT hoods are made from the same material. This is a detail most salvage yards won’t tell you.

• Base and mid-level trims (Dodge Caravan SE/SXT, Chrysler Town & Country Touring) use steel hoods.
• Higher trims (Chrysler Town & Country Limited, Dodge Caravan R/T in Canada) use aluminum hoods.

The aluminum hood is about 8–10 lbs lighter than the steel version. That doesn’t sound like much, but it matters for two reasons:

1. Hood struts: The gas struts are calibrated for a specific weight range. If you put an aluminum hood on a base van with steel-rated struts, the hood will pop up too fast and may overextend the strut rod. If you put a steel hood on a Limited with aluminum-rated struts, the hood will feel heavy and may not stay fully open on a slope.

2. Magnetic paint meters: If you’re buying a used hood and want to check for bondo or filler, a magnetic paint thickness gauge will read differently on aluminum vs. steel. A steel hood shows a strong magnetic pull; an aluminum hood shows none. If you’re checking a “steel” hood and the magnet doesn’t stick, you’re looking at an aluminum part.

Practical implication for your purchase decision: If you’re replacing a hood on a Limited or R/T, buy an aluminum hood. If you’re replacing on a base SE, buy steel. Mixing them works mechanically, but you’ll need to swap the struts too — that’s an extra $40–$60 in parts and 20 minutes of labor. The strut part numbers differ between steel and aluminum hood applications, so verify which one your van originally had before ordering replacements. A quick check: look at the strut label. Steel-hood struts are typically rated at 90–100 lbs of force; aluminum-hood struts are rated at 70–80 lbs. The rating is printed on the strut body.

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Hood Ajar Switch and Wiring Differences

The hood ajar switch (also called the hood latch switch) is a small plunger switch mounted near the latch. It triggers the “Hood Open” warning on the instrument cluster.

• 2008–2010 models: The switch is a two-wire design. The connector is a flat, rectangular plug.
• 2011–2020 models: The switch is a three-wire design with a round connector.

If you install a hood from a 2008–2010 van onto a 2011+ van, the switch connector won’t match your harness. You have two options:

1. Swap the switch from your original hood. It’s held in by a single screw or a push clip.

2. Splice the wires — but this is not recommended. The three-wire design has a redundant ground circuit. Splicing can cause intermittent false warnings that appear and disappear as the hood flexes while driving.

Verification step: Before you buy any used hood, ask the seller to send a photo of the switch connector. Count the pins. If the connector has two flat pins, it’s a 2008–2010 unit. If it has three round pins, it’s a 2011–2020 unit. Compare that to your van’s model year. If they don’t match, either budget for a replacement switch (around $25–$40 from a dealer, $12–$18 aftermarket) or plan to swap the switch from your old hood. Many salvage yards remove the switch separately for resale, so confirm it’s still attached before you pay.

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Paint and Finish Matching

The hood is the most visible panel on the van. Paint matching is where most DIYers get into trouble.

The RT platform used several different paint codes over the years. The most common are:

• Bright White (PW7) — used on both Caravan and Town & Country
• Brilliant Black (PX8) — used on both
• Deep Cherry Red (PR4) — Town & Country only
• Granite Crystal (PAU) — used on later Caravans

The catch: The same paint code can have a different formulation depending on the year. A 2012 Bright White Town & Country hood may look slightly creamier than a 2016 Bright White Caravan hood. This is due to changes in the clear coat chemistry and the switch to waterborne paints at the factory.

What to do:

• If you’re buying a used hood, get the paint code off the VIN plate (it’s on the driver’s side door jamb sticker) and compare it to the seller’s paint code.
• If the codes match but the shade looks off, it’s likely due to UV fading. A paint shop can blend the hood to match your fenders.
• If you’re painting a bare hood, use a single-stage urethane for older vans (pre-2013) and a base coat/clear coat system for newer ones.

The hood’s underside is usually not painted to the same gloss level as the exterior. If you’re installing a used hood, check the underside for rust near the hinge mounting points. This is a common spot for corrosion because water pools in the hinge recess. Surface rust can be sanded and treated with rust converter, but if the metal is pitted or perforated, the hood’s structural integrity is compromised and it will flutter at highway speed.

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Installation Flow: Step-by-Step

Here’s the full operator flow for swapping a hood on either van. Follow this order to avoid the common pitfalls.

Preparation

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Have a second person available — the hood is large and awkward to handle alone.
• Tools needed: 13 mm socket, 10 mm socket, flathead screwdriver, trim removal tool, penetrating oil.

Early Checkpoint: Hinge Bolt Condition

Before you remove anything, spray the hinge bolts with penetrating oil. Let it sit for 10 minutes. The hinge bolts are torqued to 22 ft-lbs and are prone to seizing, especially on vans from salt-belt states.

If the bolts are rusted, use a breaker bar. Do not use an impact gun on the hinge bolts — you can strip the threads in the fender mounting bracket. If the bolts are rounded off, stop and use a bolt extractor set. Drilling out a seized hinge bolt with the hood in place is a miserable job.

Ordered Steps

1. Disconnect the hood ajar switch connector. It’s on the driver’s side, near the latch. Push the release tab and pull straight back.

2. Remove the hood latch cable from the latch assembly. Use a flathead screwdriver to pop the cable end out of the latch lever.

3. Support the hood. Have your helper hold it, or use a hood prop stand.

4. Remove the hinge bolts. There are two bolts per side. Remove the bolts on the hood side, not the fender side. The fender-side bolts are for alignment.

5. Lift the hood straight up and off. Do not slide it sideways — you’ll scratch the fenders.

6. Transfer the latch and switch from the old hood to the new one if they’re not already installed.

7. Position the new hood and hand-thread the hinge bolts. Do not tighten yet.

8. Close the hood gently and check the gap alignment. The gap should be even on both sides and across the front edge.

9. Open the hood and tighten the hinge bolts to 22 ft-lbs.

10. Reconnect the latch cable and switch connector.

11. Test the latch — close the hood, then pull the release handle inside the van. The hood should pop open with one pull.

Likely Causes of Fitment Issues

• Hood sits too high on one side: Loosen the hinge bolts on that side and push the hood down slightly before retightening.
• Hood sits too far forward: Loosen all four hinge bolts, push the hood rearward, and retighten.
• Latch won’t engage: The striker on the hood may be misaligned. Loosen the striker bolts (two 10 mm bolts) and adjust the striker position.

Friction Points

• The hood seal: The rubber seal along the front edge of the cowl can be reused, but if it’s cracked, replace it. A worn seal causes wind noise at highway speed and allows water to pool on the engine bay components.
• The hood struts: If your old struts are weak, replace them while the hood is off. It’s a 10-minute job with a flathead screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

Escalation Signals

• If the hinge bolts are stripped or the fender mounting bracket is cracked, stop. You need a new fender or a threaded repair insert. Driving with a compromised hinge mount is dangerous — the hood can fly up at speed.
• If the hood latch cable is frayed or kinked, replace it before reinstalling the hood. A broken cable means you cannot open the hood from inside the van.

Success Check

• The hood opens and closes smoothly with one hand.
• The gap between the hood and fenders is even (3–4 mm on all sides).
• The hood ajar warning light does not appear on the dash.
• The hood sits flush with the grille and headlights.

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Expert Tips for Hood Replacement

Tip 1: Always swap the latch assembly, not just the hood.

The latch mechanism is a wear item. If you’re buying a used hood, the latch on it may be worn or corroded. Take the latch off your old hood and install it on the new one. The latch is held by three 10 mm bolts and takes five minutes to swap. Avoid the mistake of leaving the old latch in place and assuming it will work — the spring inside the latch can fail without visible signs, leaving you with a hood that won’t stay closed.

Tip 2: Check the hood’s inner structure for prior repair.

Look at the underside of the hood near the front edge. If you see weld marks, ripples, or uneven seam sealer, the hood was previously repaired. A repaired hood may look fine on top but can have weakened inner bracing, which causes hood flutter at highway speeds. Run your hand along the inner edges — if you feel sharp metal burrs, the hood was cut and rewelded. Walk away from that part.

Tip 3: Verify the part number before you pay.

The OEM part number for the hood is stamped on the inner panel, near the driver’s side hinge. For 2008–2010, the number starts with 680 or 681. For 2011–2020, it starts with 682 or 683. If the number doesn’t match your van’s generation, you’re looking at the wrong hood. This is the fastest way to avoid buying a pre-refresh hood for a post-refresh van.

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Cost and Sourcing

Here’s what you can expect to pay, based on current market data:

• Used hood (steel): $150–$300 at a salvage yard, depending on condition and paint match.
• Used hood (aluminum): $200–$350.
• Aftermarket new hood: $250–$450 for a steel unit. Brands like Sherman and Keystone make direct-fit replacements.
• OEM new hood: $500–$700 from a dealer. This is rarely worth it unless you need a perfect paint match on a newer van.

Sourcing tip: When buying from a salvage yard, ask for the year and trim of the donor van. A hood from a 2015 Town & Country Limited is aluminum. A hood from a 2015 Caravan SE is steel. The yard may not know the difference — you have to ask.

Trade-off to consider: Aftermarket hoods are cheaper, but they often come without the hood ajar switch, latch, or cable bracket pre-installed. You’ll need to transfer all of those from your old hood. Aftermarket hoods also tend to have thinner gauge steel, which means they’re more prone to dents and may not match the OEM hood’s weight. If you’re replacing a hood on a van with a hood ajar warning system, confirm the aftermarket hood has the correct mounting holes for the switch — some budget units omit them entirely.

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Final Considerations

The Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country hoods are the same physical part for the 2008–2020 RT platform. The differences that matter are the latch cable bracket position (pre-2011 vs. post-2011), the hood material (steel vs. aluminum), and the electrical connector for the hood ajar switch. Check those three items before you buy, and the swap will go smoothly. Skip them, and you’ll be chasing fitment and wiring issues for days.

The practical takeaway: verify the donor van’s model year and trim before you commit to a purchase, and always compare the latch cable bracket hole spacing and switch connector style against your original hood. If those match, the hood will bolt on and function correctly. If they don’t, you’re looking at extra parts, extra labor, and a repair that should have been a one-hour job turning into a weekend project.