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Did Chrysler Ever Release a 300 Hellcat?

ByGreedy Wheels

No. Chrysler never released a factory 300 Hellcat. The most powerful engine ever offered in the 300 was the 6.4L HEMI V8 (392 cubic inches) in the 300C, rated at 485 horsepower. The Hellcat’s 6.2L supercharged HEMI was reserved exclusively for Dodge models—the Charger, Challenger, and Durango. If you’ve seen a 300 wearing Hellcat badging, it’s either a custom conversion, a badge job, or a salvage-title parts swap.

That said, the question isn’t dead. The aftermarket has made Hellcat-powered 300s surprisingly common, and the swap is one of the more straightforward Mopar engine transplants you can do. Here’s what you need to know if you’re chasing that power in a 300.

Why the 300 Never Got the Supercharged HEMI

The reason is brand separation, not engineering incapability. Chrysler positioned the 300 as a luxury-oriented sedan competing with the Buick LaCrosse and Lincoln Continental. Dodge owned the performance image. Putting a 707-horsepower supercharged V8 in the 300 would have cannibalized Charger Hellcat sales and blurred the two brands’ identities.

There’s also a packaging reality. The Hellcat engine is physically larger and runs hotter than the 6.4L. The 300’s engine bay was designed around the 5.7L and 6.4L HEMIs, and while the Hellcat does physically fit, it requires additional cooling capacity, a different oil pan, and a higher-capacity fuel system. Chrysler would have needed to re-engineer the front cradle and cooling pack—costly work for a model already slated for discontinuation.

The detail most discussions miss: the 300 and Charger share the same LX platform, but the 300’s front-end structure and radiator support differ. A Hellcat swap isn’t a direct bolt-in; it requires modifications that a factory program would have absorbed but an individual must handle themselves.

The 300’s Actual Top Engine: The 392 HEMI

If you want a factory 300 with maximum power, you’re looking at the 2015–2023 Chrysler 300C with the 6.4L Apache HEMI. Specs:

  • 485 horsepower at 6,100 rpm
  • 475 lb-ft of torque at 4,100 rpm
  • 0–60 mph: approximately 4.6 seconds (independent testing)
  • Quarter-mile: low 13s

That’s genuinely quick, but it’s not Hellcat territory. The 392 in the 300 is also paired with the 8HP70 eight-speed automatic—the same transmission used in the Charger Scat Pack—and it gets a limited-slip differential. The 300C was a sleeper: it looked like a luxury barge but had real muscle under the hood.

If you’re shopping for a 300 and want the most power without touching a wrench, the 392 is your only factory option. The 5.7L HEMI (300S) makes 363 horsepower, and the base V6 (300) makes 292–300 horsepower depending on the year. The gap between the 392 and the Hellcat is significant—about 220 horsepower—but the 392 is reliable, emissions-legal, and covered by a factory warranty.

What a Hellcat Swap Actually Requires

Here’s the counter-intuitive angle most articles skip: the Hellcat swap into a 300 is mechanically simpler than you’d expect, but the cost breakdown changes the math.

The engine itself is the easy part. The 6.2L supercharged HEMI uses the same bellhousing pattern as the 6.4L, so it bolts to the 8HP70 transmission. The motor mounts are in the same location. The accessory drive is similar. In theory, a 392-powered 300C can accept a Hellcat long block with minimal fabrication.

The hard parts are:

1. Supercharger clearance. The Hellcat’s supercharger sits high, and the 300’s hood has less clearance than the Charger’s. You’ll need either a cowl hood or a custom hood scoop. This is the single most common oversight in swap builds.

2. Cooling system. The Hellcat generates enormous heat. The factory 300 radiator is insufficient. You need the Hellcat’s larger radiator, dual fans, and auxiliary coolers for the transmission and power steering. Budget $1,500–$2,500 for cooling alone.

3. Fuel system. The Hellcat uses a returnless high-pressure fuel system with a dual-pump module. The 300’s fuel tank and pump assembly differ from the Charger’s. You’ll need the Hellcat fuel pump module, and it may require tank modifications.

4. Wiring and PCM. This is the dealbreaker for most DIYers. The Hellcat uses a standalone PCM with its own harness. You can either run a standalone harness (aftermarket options exist) or integrate the Hellcat PCM into the 300’s body control module. The latter requires CAN bus reprogramming and is not a weekend project.

5. Driveshaft and axles. The 392’s driveshaft may not handle Hellcat torque. You’ll need the Hellcat’s stronger driveshaft and, ideally, upgraded half shafts.

Realistic cost: $20,000–$30,000 in parts and labor for a professional swap. A used Hellcat crate engine runs $12,000–$18,000. The cooling, fuel, and wiring add $5,000–$8,000. Labor is another $5,000–$10,000 if you don’t do it yourself.

For that money, you could buy a used Charger Hellcat outright. A 2018–2021 Charger Hellcat with 40,000–60,000 miles sells for $40,000–$50,000. The swap only makes sense if you already own a clean, low-mileage 300C and want to keep it—or if you’re building a show car where the “300 Hellcat” badge is the point.

Before You Start: Tools, Parts, and Prep

Gather these before you pull the 392:

  • Complete Hellcat engine with PCM and full harness. A long block alone isn’t enough. You need the engine harness, PCM, and all sensors. Buying pieces separately costs more and creates compatibility headaches.
  • Hellcat radiator, dual fans, and auxiliary coolers. The 300’s stock cooling won’t survive sustained boost.
  • Hellcat fuel pump module. Verify it fits your 300’s tank; some years need minor tank modifications.
  • Cowl hood or hood scoop. Measure clearance before you commit to a body shop.
  • OBD2 scanner with CAN bus capability. You’ll need it for PCM programming and to verify sensor data after the swap.

Step-by-Step: The Swap Sequence

Step 1: Baseline the donor vehicle. Confirm the Hellcat engine’s provenance. Check the VIN stamp on the block, request compression test results, and inspect the oil pan and supercharger inlet for debris. A blown supercharger sends metal through the engine, and a “low-mile” salvage engine can hide a spun bearing.

Step 2: Pull the 392 and prep the bay. Remove the engine, radiator, and fuel pump. Clean the bay thoroughly. Inspect the front cradle, strut towers, and floor pans for rust or damage—the swap adds weight and torque, and a compromised subframe will fail.

Step 3: Install the Hellcat fuel system. Drop the tank and swap in the Hellcat pump module. If your 300’s tank needs modification, do it now. Flush the lines to remove any debris.

Step 4: Drop in the Hellcat long block. Use the Hellcat motor mounts (they’re the same location as the 392). Bolt the 8HP70 transmission to the block. Install the Hellcat radiator, dual fans, and auxiliary coolers before you connect anything else.

Step 5: Wire the PCM and harness. Run the Hellcat harness to the PCM. If you’re using a standalone harness, follow the manufacturer’s pinout. If you’re integrating into the 300’s body control module, you’ll need CAN bus reprogramming—this is where most DIYers hit the wall.

Step 6: Address the hood clearance. Test-fit the hood before you finish assembly. If the supercharger hits, install the cowl hood or scoop now, not after you’ve painted and detailed.

Step 7: Verify and test. Start the engine and check for codes. Confirm fuel pressure, coolant temperature, and boost readings on the OBD2 scanner. Do a short test drive at low load before you attempt any full-throttle pulls.

Success signal: The engine idles clean, no codes beyond expected post-swap calibrations, and boost builds smoothly under load. Stop signal: Detonation under load, fuel pressure drops, or coolant temps climb past 220°F—shut it down and diagnose before continuing.

Pro Tips Worth Knowing

Tip 1: Verify the engine’s provenance before buying a used Hellcat crate engine.

The Hellcat engine is a popular pull from salvage cars, and not all salvage engines are equal. Check the VIN stamp on the block, request compression test results, and ask for photos of the oil pan and supercharger inlet for signs of debris. A blown supercharger can send metal through the engine. Common mistake: buying a “low-mile” engine without documentation and discovering it has a spun bearing after installation.

Tip 2: Use the Hellcat’s factory PCM and harness, not a piggyback tuner.

The Hellcat’s PCM controls the supercharger bypass valve, knock sensors, and fuel delivery with precision. A piggyback tuner on a 392 PCM cannot properly manage the supercharged engine’s boost and timing maps. Common mistake: trying to save money by reflashing a 392 PCM and ending up with detonation under load.

Tip 3: Upgrade the 300’s brakes before you upgrade the power.

The 300C comes with four-piston Brembo calipers on the front, but those are designed for 485 horsepower. At Hellcat power levels, you need the six-piston Brembos from the Charger Hellcat or an aftermarket big brake kit. Common mistake: focusing all budget on the engine and discovering the brakes fade after two hard stops from 120 mph.

A Quick Fit Check for Your 300 Hellcat Plan

Before you commit to a swap, run through these five checks. Each is a pass/fail decision point.

  • Is your 300 a 2015 or newer with the 8HP70 transmission? If yes, the transmission can handle Hellcat torque. If it’s an older 5-speed (2005–2010), you need a transmission swap too—add $4,000–$6,000.
  • Do you have a garage or workspace with 240V power? The Hellcat swap requires significant electrical work, including soldering and CAN bus diagnostics. If you can’t do this yourself, factor in shop labor rates of $100–$150/hour.
  • Can you source a complete Hellcat engine with the PCM and wiring harness? A long block alone is not enough. You need the full engine harness, PCM, and all sensors. Buying pieces separately will cost more and create compatibility headaches.
  • Is your 300’s body and frame rust-free? The swap adds weight and torque, and a rusted subframe or mounting points will fail. Inspect the front cradle, strut towers, and floor pans before starting.
  • Have you budgeted for cooling and fuel system upgrades? If your plan only covers the engine, you’re under-budgeted. Add at least $3,000 for cooling and fuel work.

If you fail any of these checks, the swap becomes significantly more expensive or impractical. If you pass all five, you have a viable build path.

The Decision: Swap or Buy a Charger Hellcat

Chrysler never built a factory 300 Hellcat, and they never will—the 300 was discontinued after the 2023 model year. But the aftermarket has filled the gap, and a Hellcat-swapped 300 is a legitimate, proven build. The 300’s LX platform shares enough with the Charger that the swap is well-documented, and several shops specialize in it.

The decision comes down to your starting point. If you already own a 392-powered 300C and want more power, the swap is a viable—if expensive—path. If you’re starting from scratch, buying a Charger Hellcat is almost always the smarter financial move. The 300 Hellcat is a niche build for enthusiasts who value the sleeper aesthetic and the uniqueness of a car Chrysler never had the nerve to build.

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