Maserati & Ferrari Engines: A Shared History Explained

When someone says “Maserati with a Ferrari engine,” they’re usually picturing a prancing-horse badge bolted onto a trident car. The reality is more precise—and more interesting. For roughly 15 years, Ferrari supplied engines for Maserati, but not every Maserati from that era has a Ferrari heart, and the relationship was never a simple parts-bin handoff. Understanding exactly which engines were shared, how they were modified, and why the partnership ended tells you more about both brands than any badge ever could.

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The Timeline: Two Distinct Phases, One Complicated Relationship

The Ferrari-Maserati engine relationship officially ran from 2002 to 2018, but it wasn’t a single continuous contract. It happened in two distinct phases, and the second phase is the one most people get wrong.

Phase 1 (2002–2008): Ferrari-Built V8s

Ferrari supplied the 4.2L F136 V8 for the Maserati Coupé, Spyder, GranSport, and the Quattroporte V. This engine was a clean-sheet design developed jointly by Ferrari and Maserati engineers but assembled at Ferrari’s Maranello plant. It shared its basic architecture with the Ferrari F430’s 4.3L V8—same block family, different bore and stroke.

Phase 2 (2007–2018): Ferrari-Designed V6s

Here’s the counter-intuitive part. When Maserati launched the GranTurismo S in 2008, it used a 4.7L version of the F136 V8—still Ferrari-built. But the later Ghibli (2013) and Levante (2016) used a 3.0L twin-turbo V6 that was designed by Ferrari but assembled at Maserati’s own plant in Modena. So the “Ferrari engine” in a modern Ghibli is a Ferrari-designed, Maserati-built unit. That’s a meaningful distinction for anyone shopping used.

The 2018 Break

Ferrari’s contract to supply engines to Maserati expired in 2018 and was not renewed. Ferrari’s then-CEO Sergio Marchionne (who also ran Fiat Chrysler) made the call to end the arrangement, partly because Ferrari needed its own engine capacity for its booming SUV and special-series programs. Since then, Maserati has moved to its own Nettuno V6 (developed in-house, with F1-derived pre-chamber combustion) for the MC20 and Grecale.

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The F136 V8: The Engine Everyone Actually Means

If someone says “Maserati with a Ferrari engine,” they almost certainly mean the F136 V8. Here’s what you need to know if you’re considering one.

Two Displacements, Two Personalities

Engine	Displacement	Output (Maserati trim)	Used In	Ferrari Equivalent
F136 S	4.2L	385–400 hp	Coupé, Spyder, GranSport, Quattroporte V	F430 (4.3L, 483 hp)
F136 U	4.7L	430–460 hp	GranTurismo S, Quattroporte GTS, GranCabrio	California (4.3L), 458 Italia (4.5L)

The 4.2L is smoother and more tractable around town. The 4.7L is noticeably angrier, with a higher redline (7,200 rpm vs. 7,000 rpm) and sharper throttle response. Neither is a low-end torque monster—these are engines that want to be revved, and they sound like it.

The Ferrari Difference: It’s Not Just the Badge

The F136 was not a Maserati engine that Ferrari happened to build. It was designed with Ferrari’s performance priorities baked in:

• Flat-plane crankshaft (in the 4.7L): This gives the signature high-pitched wail and allows higher revs, but it also means more vibration at idle compared to a cross-plane V8. That’s a Ferrari trait, not a defect.
• F1-derived variable valve timing: The system continuously adjusts both intake and exhaust cam timing, which is why the powerband feels so linear.
• Dry-sump oiling (4.7L only): The GranTurismo S and Quattroporte GTS use a dry-sump system, meaning the oil lives in a separate tank, not the pan. This lowers the engine’s center of gravity and prevents oil starvation during hard cornering. It also means you must check oil level via the electronic dipstick—there’s no physical dipstick.

Common misconception: People assume the Maserati F136 is identical to the Ferrari F430’s engine. It isn’t. The F430’s 4.3L uses a different bore (86.8mm vs. 86mm) and a higher compression ratio (11.3:1 vs. 11.0:1). The intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and ECU calibration are all Maserati-specific. You cannot swap Ferrari internals into a Maserati F136 without machining.

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The 3.0L Twin-Turbo V6: Ferrari-Designed, Maserati-Built

This engine (codenamed F160) is the source of endless confusion. Here’s the breakdown:

• Designed by Ferrari in Maranello, with Ferrari’s turbocharging expertise from the California T and 488 GTB programs.
• Built by Maserati at its Modena plant, on a dedicated line.
• Two states of tune: 345 hp in the base Ghibli/Levante, 424 hp in the S trims. The difference is mostly turbo boost pressure and exhaust tuning, not hardware.

The F160 is a 60-degree V6 with a hot-V layout—the turbos sit inside the V, between the cylinder banks. This shortens exhaust paths for better throttle response but makes the engine bay hot and tight. If you’re working on one yourself, budget extra time for anything near the turbos.

What this means for buyers: A 2014–2018 Ghibli or Levante has a Ferrari-designed engine, but it does not have Ferrari build quality or Ferrari maintenance costs. The engine itself is robust, but the surrounding systems (turbo actuators, charge air coolers, PCV valves) are Maserati-spec and fail at Maserati-spec intervals. Don’t pay a “Ferrari tax” on parts just because of the design lineage.

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Reliability: What Actually Goes Wrong

Let’s be direct: these engines are not Toyota Camry reliable. They’re Italian performance engines, and they have specific failure patterns. Here’s what to watch for.

F136 V8 (4.2L and 4.7L)

The big one: timing chain stretch and guide wear. The F136 uses a chain-driven valvetrain, and the chain guides are a known weak point. Symptoms include a rattling noise on cold start, especially from the front of the engine. If you catch it early, you’re looking at $1,500–$2,500 for guides and tensioners. If you don’t, the chain can skip teeth and you’re into engine-out territory—$6,000+.

Also common:

• Oil leaks from the timing cover and cam covers. These engines run hot, and the gaskets harden over time. A small seep is normal; a drip is a repair.
• Variable valve timing solenoids fail (typically 60,000–80,000 miles). You’ll get a check engine light with codes like P0011 or P0021. The solenoids are ~$150 each and are a DIY-friendly job if you’re comfortable with basic hand tools.
• Spark plugs are a pain. The rear bank plugs require removing the intake manifold on some models. Budget 4–6 hours of labor if you’re paying a shop.

The good news: The bottom end (crankshaft, rods, bearings) is stout. These engines rarely suffer catastrophic internal failure if oil changes are done on time. The F136 is not an interference engine in most configurations, so a timing chain failure won’t necessarily destroy the valves—but don’t gamble on that.

F160 V6 (3.0L Twin-Turbo)

The big one: turbocharger wastegate rattle and actuator failure. The wastegate actuators are electronic and known to fail, causing a loss of boost and a check engine light (often P0243 or P0244). Replacement is $800–$1,200 per side, and it’s a labor-intensive job because of the hot-V layout.

Also common:

• PCV valve clogging leads to oil consumption and blue smoke on startup. This is a $200–$400 fix if caught early.
• Charge air cooler leaks at the plastic end tanks. You’ll notice a hissing sound under boost and reduced power.
• Oil pressure sensor failure (P0520) is common around 50,000 miles. It’s a cheap part but requires removing the oil filter housing to access.

The good news: The F160’s block and rotating assembly are solid. The engine itself rarely fails; it’s the peripheral systems that cause the headaches.

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Oil and Maintenance: The Non-Negotiables

Both engines are sensitive to oil choice. The F136 V8 requires a 5W-30 full synthetic meeting API SN PLUS or higher. The F160 V6 also uses 5W-30, but Maserati specifies a low-ash (low-SAPS) oil to protect the turbochargers and emissions system.

What you should use:

• Total Quartz 9000 Future FGC 5W-30 (meets API SN PLUS, Maserati’s spec)
• Total Quartz 9000 Future XT 5W-30 (similar spec, slightly different additive package)
• Mobil Super Synthetic 5W-30 or higher (meets or exceeds the required spec)

What you should avoid:

• Any oil that doesn’t meet API SN PLUS. The “PLUS” designation matters—it indicates the oil is formulated to handle low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), which is a real risk in turbocharged engines like the F160.
• Thicker oils like 10W-40 or 15W-50. These engines have tight bearing clearances and variable valve timing systems that rely on proper oil pressure. Thicker oil will make the timing system sluggish and can cause chain rattle.

Change intervals: Maserati’s official interval is 12,500 miles, but that’s optimistic for real-world driving. Change it every 7,500 miles if you do mostly city driving or short trips, and every 10,000 miles if you’re mostly highway. These engines shear oil (break down the viscosity) faster than most, and the variable valve timing systems are sensitive to oil condition.

One more thing: The F136 4.7L’s dry-sump system holds about 9.5 quarts of oil. The 4.2L wet-sump holds about 8.5 quarts. Don’t trust the “add oil” warning light—check the electronic dipstick monthly if you drive the car hard.

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Diagnosing a Cold-Start Rattle: A Step-by-Step Owner’s Flow

You’ve just bought—or are about to buy—an F136-powered Maserati, and there’s a rattle on cold start. Here’s how to work through it without guessing.

What You’ll Need

• A quiet location (a garage or empty street where you can hear the engine clearly)
• A phone with a video camera to record the sound
• An OBD2 scanner (a basic Bluetooth one is fine for this)
• The service history, if you’re evaluating a purchase

Step 1: Time the Rattle

Start the engine cold (after it’s sat for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight). Record the first 30 seconds of idle. Listen for a metallic, clattering sound from the front of the engine—not the top, not the sides.

• If the rattle lasts 2–5 seconds then disappears: This is often hydraulic tensioners pressurizing. It’s annoying but frequently benign, especially if the oil was recently changed.
• If the rattle persists for 10–15 seconds or longer: This points to timing chain guide wear. The guides lose their plastic coating, allowing the chain to slap against metal.

Step 2: Check the Oil Level and Condition

Pull the electronic dipstick (on the 4.7L) or the physical one (on the 4.2L). If the oil is low, the tensioners can’t build pressure quickly, which makes the rattle worse. Top off with the correct spec oil and re-test after the car has sat overnight.

• If the rattle goes away after topping off: You’ve found a maintenance issue, not a mechanical failure. Still, budget for a closer look at the guides.
• If the rattle persists with correct oil level: Move to Step 3.

Step 3: Scan for Codes

Plug in your OBD2 scanner and check for stored or pending codes. Look specifically for:

• P0011 / P0021 (camshaft position timing over-advanced)
• P0008 / P0009 (bank position performance)

These codes indicate the variable valve timing system is struggling, which often accompanies chain guide wear.

Step 4: The Decision Point

Here’s where the branch happens:

• No codes, rattle fades within 5 seconds, oil level correct: You’re likely fine. Monitor it. Change the oil on a 5,000-mile interval and re-evaluate at the next cold start.
• Codes present, rattle persists beyond 10 seconds: The chain guides are wearing. Plan for guide and tensioner replacement. On a 4.2L, expect $1,500–$2,500 at an independent shop. On a 4.7L with dry-sump, add 20–30% to that figure because of tighter access.
• Rattle is accompanied by a check engine light flashing or a rough idle: Stop here. Do not drive the car. A flashing CEL indicates misfire or severe timing issues that can cause chain skip. Have it flatbedded to a shop.

When to Stop and Escalate

If you hear a loud, continuous metallic knocking (not a rattle) that gets faster as the engine revs, stop the engine immediately. That’s a rod or bearing issue, not a timing chain problem. Do not drive the car. Have it towed to a qualified European performance shop. This is the point where DIY ends and professional diagnosis begins—continuing to run the engine risks catastrophic failure that turns a $2,500 repair into a $15,000 replacement.

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Expert Tips for Maserati-Ferrari Engine Ownership

1. Buy a pre-purchase inspection that includes a cold-start test, not just a code scan.

The timing chain rattle on the F136 is most audible in the first 10 seconds after a cold start. A standard PPI that checks codes and does a visual inspection will miss it. Ask the shop to leave the car overnight and start it cold, or at minimum, let it sit for 4+ hours before starting. If you hear a metallic rattle from the front of the engine that fades after 10–15 seconds, walk away or negotiate $2,000–$3,000 off the price for chain guide replacement. The common mistake is buying on compression numbers alone—compression can be perfect while the guides are disintegrating.

2. On the F160 V6, replace the PCV valve proactively at 50,000 miles.

It’s a $30–$50 part, and the job takes about 30 minutes on the Ghibli (it’s on the top of the engine, under the intake manifold cover). The common mistake is ignoring oil consumption until you see blue smoke—by then, the clogged PCV has already caused carbon buildup on the intake valves and potentially damaged the turbo seals. If you’re at 50k and haven’t done it, do it this weekend.

3. Use the correct oil, and verify it with the API starburst symbol.

Don’t trust a bottle that says “European formula” or “high performance” without checking the API certification. The F136 and F160 both need API SN PLUS or newer (SP). The common mistake is using a 0W-40 or 5W-40 “performance” oil because it’s what the local parts store recommends—that extra viscosity will make the variable valve timing sluggish and can trigger P0011/P0021 codes. Stick with the 5W-30 spec, and if you’re tracking the car, use a 5W-30 that meets ACEA C3 for the F160 (low-SAPS) to protect the turbos.

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The 2018 Break and What It Means for You

The end of the Ferrari-Maserati engine relationship wasn’t a scandal—it was a business decision. Ferrari needed its engine production capacity for its own lineup, and Maserati was moving toward electrification and its own powertrains. The Nettuno V6 in the MC20 and Grecale is Maserati’s first fully in-house engine since the 1990s, and it’s a genuinely impressive piece of engineering (the pre-chamber combustion system is derived from F1). But it’s a different character entirely—more torque, less top-end scream.

What this means for used buyers:

• 2018 is the last year for a Maserati with a Ferrari-built engine (the GranTurismo and Quattroporte ran the F136 until 2019, but the 2019 models were built from 2018 parts stock).
• Parts availability is not a concern. Ferrari is legally obligated to supply spare parts for the engines it built, and Maserati has its own parts network. You won’t be stranded.
• Resale value is interesting. Some enthusiasts specifically seek out the Ferrari-engine cars, which has kept values on late-model GranTurismos and Quattroportes firmer than the newer models. If you buy one, you’re buying into a finite pool.

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The Shared History, Summarized

The Ferrari-Maserati engine relationship was real, but it wasn’t a badge-swap exercise. Ferrari built the F136 V8s that powered Maserati’s most iconic modern models, then designed the F160 twin-turbo V6 that Maserati assembled itself. Each engine carried Ferrari’s performance DNA—flat-plane cranks, F1-derived valvetrain tech, and a willingness to rev—but each was tuned and packaged specifically for Maserati’s grand-touring character.

For buyers, the distinction matters. A 4.7L GranTurismo S has a genuine Ferrari-built engine with Ferrari’s dry-sump oiling and flat-plane crank. A 2014 Ghibli S has a Ferrari-designed engine that Maserati built, with different maintenance realities. Neither is a bad engine, but they demand different expectations and different budgets.

The relationship ended in 2018, and Maserati has since developed its own powertrains. But the Ferrari-engine era left a lasting mark on the brand’s modern identity. Those cars are now finite in number, with a dedicated enthusiast following that understands exactly what they are—and what they aren’t.